Torres Del Paine

Off we headed to Chilean Patagonia to do the "W", a classic trek in el Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. We started with a boat ride to the trailhead and were immediately impressed by the incredible views.











The peaks and rock spires were peaking out from the clouds and fog hovering above. People on the boat reported that the previous day when they had entered the park they couldn't see anything, again making us realize what buen suerte we were having with the weather!








Yes, the lake was really this color. Coming straight from the glacier gives it this milky aqua color.












And we were off for five days and four nights in the park!










We met two other people from Denver (small world!) on the bus to the park, and ended up hiking the whole time with them. Here are Steve, Laura, Cameron and I- with Glacier Grey in the background.




We knew we were getting closer to the glacier when we could see these huge icebergs floating in the lake.











Cameron doing some "ubication" with the map, Glacier Grey in the background.













After a tiny bit of rain on our hike in, the skies cleared and we were treated to an incredible sunset overlooking Glacier Grey- just a couple minutes from our campground. We could periodically hear chunks of ice breaking off and falling into the lake below.







We met four other people from Colorado on the way into the park, and the eight of us Coloradoans sat together on the rocks taking it all in. We enjoyed pasta-a-la-Cameron in quite possibly the most incredible place I have ever had dinner- absolutely surreal!!










A view from our hike the following day. We were pleasantly surprised by how lush the trail was. The trees, flowers, fruit, and waterfalls made the views of the snowy peaks even more impressive.














On our morning hike up to Valle Frances, we started the trip with this sunrise-splashed mountain, blue sky, and the moon hanging on above. Although it is hard to imagine the scale here, the peak is towering about 9,000 feet above us!















Here is the same mountain later in the day. Chunks of the glaciers were constantly breaking off, sending a thundering sound up the valley. The snow and ice falling looked like mini waterfalls as it crashed down on the ice field below. It was hard to keep hiking and leave the view of this dynamic mountain!







Here are Cameron and Laura taking in the view of the top of Valle Frances where it opens up to a huge bowl surrounded by peaks. (I promise this wasn´t posed:)











Here is the view down the valley that we climbed up-to the opposite side of the peaks.














One section of peaks in the bowl- the section on the right is called "Cabeza del Indio". I couldn't quite figure out where the indian head was- let me know if you see it!









More peaks to the left of the previous picture. Some of the rock formations were very Moab-esque.

On our way to our next campsite, Steve, Laura and Cameron with "Los Cuernos" in the background. These rock formations form the right-hand side of the bowl (put these four pictures together to get an idea of the panoramic view:)

Here is one of the signs on the trail, with Los Cuernos in the background. The whole trail is very well-signed, and the times were quite accurate (a slight blow to our confidence or pride that assumed we could do it in less time!)

Here is our next campsite, beneath the opposite side of Los Cuernos. You can see our tent in the lower left-hand corner. Again, the moon was there to greet us in the morning.













...and a few minutes later as the emerging sun painted the rocks. I stood lakeside in silent awe, watching the fog rise up through the mountains and the wispy clouds float past the pinkish peaks.











Here we are at a lunch break on the way to our final campsite, at the base of the towers. Laura, Cameron, myself, Steve, and our two new friends from Germany- Robert and Matias. There were refugios (huts) along the trail where you could stay. We opted for the free campsites, but didn't hesitate to take advantage of the refugios and buy some wine and chocolate (essentials for the trail:)





That afternoon we headed up to see los Torres del Paine, the namesake of the park. We wanted to assure ourselves a view of them just in case our luck with the weather changed and it was cloudy the next morning. Here is Cameron gazing out at the massive rock towers, glaciers, and two toned rock descending into the greenish glacial lake.














This tree pose is for you, Mom!
























Fortunatly our luck didn't change and we climbed up the next morning to see the Torres in a different light.
We were finally able to rave about the weather without fear of jinxing ourselves. Seeing the Torres at sunrise was a perfect conclusion to our trip. This is truly an enchanting place!

El Chaltén, Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre

Cameron finished up his medical rotation in Peru in time to make the quick trip (hah!) down to Patagonia. Call it Colorado luck or something, but we were absolutely charmed with weather. Camping out under (almost) a full-moon and star-filled skies and hiking in fresh fallish weather made for a great trip (and lots of photo-taking frenzies... here are just a select few!) We took a few pictures with the Denver Post Travel section for a chance for some local publicity:) Keep an eye out on Sundays to see if we make it in there!

Here with the Fitz Roy range in the background.









We did a little loop, hiking for three days and camping two nights. Again with Fitz Roy in the background.












Many people we met spent multiple days waiting for the clouds to part so they could see Cerro Torre, the tall thin spire in the background. It is located right on the edge of the Southern Continental Ice Field and therefore has its own microclimate. It is basically like a cloud machine that constantly envelops the peak in blustery clouds. Brave climbers wait a long time in this campsite for a day that is clear enough to attempt the summit. With our ridiculous luck, it was right there waiting for us! The next day hiking out we saw a group of people waiting at the viewpoint, patiently hoping it would emerge from the thick clouds... we thought about showing them our pictures but thought it may seem like we were trying to rub it in:)





Here at Laguna de los Tres, a lake one hour up the hill from our campground. We climbed up the night we arrived to see the view just in case the following morning was overcast.










Which fortunately it was not!!! We arrived at the top to enjoy a serene display of colors as the sun hit the peaks, glaciers, and finally the lake. I felt like I was on a movie set with a fake background because it was SO GORGEOUS!!!!














Not Photoshopped... I swear.

Glaciers and Mountains and Lakes, Oh My!

I had one more Buenos Aires outing for Davin's birthday. Here with Fernando (director of my program), his friends Gaby, Silvia, and Federico, and Davin. It was a great way to end my city time- I was ready to head to Patagonia!










I headed first to El Calafate, where I went to see the Perito Moreno glacier. It is the only glacier (on earth, I believe) that continues to grow. The ice walls shown here are up to 60 meters high- like a 15 story building of ice!










We saw and heard the crashing of multiple chunks breaking off and falling into the lake- some of which we got to pick up!












It is justifiably a very touristy place- absolutely breathtaking!














Next I headed to El Chaltén, a few hours north of El Calafate. It is a very remote, small, windy town with some incredible hiking. I was waiting for Cameron to arrive so I saved the good stuff for last. Here on an eventually snowy hike with the small town in the background. It is the newest town in Argentina- most likely founded so that Chile couldn´t stake claim to this land and fresh water (they have never-ending battles over border limits!)




Here on a gorgeous day with breathtaking Fitz Roy mountian in the background.













Cooking some delectable Argentine steaks in the hostel with Tom(Thailand), Dunkin (Aussie), Swen(Germany), Erez and Na'ama (Israel).











The views of this incredible range keep changing as you hike, necessitating excesive picture taking... thank goodness for digital cameras!!

The Fearsome Threesome

Here (in no particular order) are photos from the fabulous time that Jenny, Ellen and I shared in Argentina and Uruguay. We had a very stressful schedule which consisted of waking up at about 11, eating, going to the beach or doing some activity, and breaking for a bottle of wine at mid-afternoon (shown here to the right).

We definitely thought we had seen the proper exchange rate when we got on the ferry to Uruguay (which we read as 300 Uruguayan pesos to 1 US Dollar). Upon arrival in Punta del Este, we went to withdrawal money from the ATM without re-checking. It wasn´t until we started passing stores that advertised shirts and books for $195 ("Wow! Those shirts are less than a dollar!!") that we realized we were mistaken. Oh... 40 to 1... slight difference! Fortunately we didn´t max out our accounts with our first blind withdrawal. Lesson learned!

But even when we knew the exchange rate, it still felt like Monopoly money!

Here on the beach in Punta del Este. It is supposedly one of the fancy resorts of South America, where all the famous Argentines flock on vacation. Although we had a great time, the constant wind made us wonder why it is so popular! The sun and sand were a welcome relief for Jenny and Ellen who had come from feet of snow. This is the sight where the "Prairie Party" idea was born... stay tuned for details, it is going to be great!

After a couple days lounging in the sun (and getting burned)

we spent a day covered in shade and towels

Out to dinner ( a little sunburned!) and enjoying a ridiculous tower of dessert!

Here at Moby Dick, a bar in the area. We met quite a few characters, including the Not-Doctors and Jamón the Brazilian Pirate.

Here at the Carnaval parade in Punta del Este. We were so impressed by all the costumes and dances- most of which you would never see in the US! It was great how women of all shapes, sizes and ages were shaking their stuff with no hesitation. We have something to learn from them!

Argentina held many "firsts" for Ellen. Never having been a coffee drinker, she had heard that Argentina has some of the best coffee in the world so she was determined to try a cup. At first sip she still thought it tasted like burned water, but she stuck to it and finished the whole cup. Still not a fan... (Jenny and I drank enought to make up for her:)

Also not being a red meat-eater, she had set her mind on eating an authentic Argentine steak. She finished off (not enjoyed, but finished!) the fine piece of carne but won´t be eating another anytime soon!

We got to experience the incredible atmosphere of a Boca futbol game (soccer:) The cheers and songs echoed continually through the stadium- the section we were in was blocked off with barbed wire and large metal spikes to protect us from the people lighting fires or fighting in the stands... It is arguably the most popular team in Argentina, like a religion to many fans. Fortunately we were under a bit of an overhang- At the end of the game we saw some liquid falling from above and a guy in our section informed us that it is quite common for them to throw cups of urine!

The oposite side of the stadium was filled with banners, flags, and crazed fans. They would periodically lower massive banners that would cover the entire section, such as this one boasting the pride of the "12th player" (the fans)

Here at the Sunday San Telmo market. (where the Bush daughters were robbed:)

10 days filled with ridiculousness, laughter and catching up. We would always refresh for the night with a 7pm nap, waking up in time to get to dinner around midnight- somehow managing to close down almost any restaurant we went to! Thanks for a fantastic visit! Blah luh lah luh...